~To Hellgill & Back~
13th August 2011
Things to do on a dull, damp day. No.134. Use the Settle & Carlisle Railway to get into remote parts of the Dales and seek out somewhere quiet for a lengthy walk.
Burnley Legend
Scroll down for photos and a description of the walk....
Hellifield Railway Station
I drove the short distance to Hellifield for the 09:40 Carlisle service. Look carefully and you will notice the Midland Railway ironwork. The train was three carriages long and at least three quarters full by the time it left Settle. My destination is Garsdale Station.
Garsdale Station
The return fare is £9.50. Like Dent Station is to Dent, Garsdale is not that close to the majority of houses in Garsdale. In fact, Garsdale Sation was originally known as Hawes Junction, but was renamed after the closure of the line from Wensleydale. My walk leads away from the railway and off into Grisedale.
Grisedale Beck
Rowantree Farm
Grisedale offers a little insight into life before the railway. Many farms were abandoned after the railway arrived and showed the community of Grisedale a way out and into a "better" life - mills and pits being preferable to bleak winters in the high dales.
Shetland Ponies
Within Grisedale is a thriving population of Shetland Ponies, both in the valley and higher up on the slopes.
Scale Bridge
Just behind the bridge and across the beck is a Quaker Burial Ground (1679-1863). Two farmsteads are abandoned in Scale.
Scale Farms
The one nearest the camera was abandoned c.1870 and the one with the roof on was left behind c.1940.
Round Ing Farm
Round Ing is the most remote of the Grisedale Farms. It's no bad thing to be here on a dull day, it allows the walker to imagine more realistically the life and times of the farmers and their families.
Grisedale
I've climbed out of the valley and up on to the track leading towards Flust. The building in the centre of the photo is Reachey Farm, this one has been restored for residential / holiday use.
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Limekiln |
Turner Hill |
The limekiln has been converted into a shelter. My walk route left Grisedale and headed over Turner Hill en route to Ais Gill.
High Paddock Farm
I decided to take lunch at the farm. Even the trees have had enough. I was in position for the main event...
Steam Excursion
Steam trains run twice a week in the "summer" over this line. Very popular, generally fully booked. The engine is Black Five No. 44932. I arrived at the farm with 10 minutes to spare, but the train was 20 minutes later than expected.
Ais Gill Cottage
Just over the watershed, just into Cumbria. Many years ago you could get a cup of tea here, but sadly not at the moment. A lane leads up, over the railway and up to the other side of the valley and Hellgill.
The Settle & Carlisle Railway
The high point at Ais Gill is 1,169 ft above sea level. The continual ascent from Settle to Blea Moor is known to railwaymen as "The Long Drag". If you have time on your hands, read up on the conception, construction, operation, decline, campaigning and thriving of the S&C. Above all else, travel the line and book one of the steam trains if you can.
Hellgill
There are really no views of Hellgill at its most dramatic. It's a deep, dark watercourse with a name to suit. A "No-Go" area, if ever there was one. I crossed the bridge over the gill and then chose the "High Way" back towards Garsdale.
The High Way
High Paddock Farms
Up there on the other side of the valley is my lunch spot and viewpoint for the train.
Lunds Viaduct
Garsdale Station is beneath the woods in the distance. I don't know if I can get back for the 15:35. There will be another one about two hours later, why hurry?
Chapel Interior
Close to Shaw is a chapel and gravestones. It appears to have been restored to a basic standard and now offers a quiet, sheltered place through an unlocked door. No idea of building's name or history.
The Chapel
I managed to find an ugly route back to the road, overgrown path and long, wet grass. Next time, I'll take the slightly longer route that uses a farm track back to the road.
The Old School House
The Moorcock Inn, Garsdale Head
I had a break in here. Warm, welcoming pub serving food all day.
Dandymire Viaduct
There is now an off-road route back to Garsdale Station for the benefit of walkers, cyclists and riders. The word is that the construction of the line was delayed here as attempts to build an embankment were thwarted by the soft ground. Instead a viaduct was built with every fourth pillar being especially robust. Why?? Answers on a postcard, please. No prizes for this one.
Garsdale Railway Station
I aimed to get here in time to watch a different steam train trundle through at about 16:30. However, it was evident that the steam engine had not performed and a diesel engine hauled the excursion through, just before I got there. Time to kill, I had a wander up above the woods.
Dandymire Viaduct
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On the platform at Garsdale is a bronze statue of Ruswarp (pronounced Russarp). Ruswarp was the constant companion of Burnley man Graham Nuttall. Graham was a founder member of the "Save the Settle & Carlisle Line" campaign group that led to the saving of the line. On January 20th 1990 Graham went missing on a walk in North Wales, 11 weeks later his body was found and for those 77 days and nights, Ruswarp had stayed by his master. A weak and 14 year old Ruswarp died at the end of Graham's funeral. Use the internet or visit the station for more on this story.
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My Return Train
Walkers: Just me.
Time taken: 5hrs 45mins over a distance of about 11 miles. Including pub time, but not the extra bit above the woods.
Route: Garsdale Station, Grisedale, Turner Hill, High Paddock Farm, Ais Gill, Hellgill, The High Road, Shaw, Moorcook Inn, Dandymire, Garsdale Station.
Weather and conditions: Dull and drizzly, leading to less dull and less drizzly.
Greetings Count: Two walkers near High Paddock and three more at Hellgill. Not too busy today.
Richard's Refreshment Review: The Moorcock Inn, Garsdale Head. Worth a look in if your around and need any form of refreshment.
All photos copyright Richard Ratcliffe 2011 ©
Take me back to the start ....